An alpine trek before an overnight cruise. Stunning alpine views, an abundance of waterfalls and a relaxing cruise in Milford Sound. My travel buddy and I came away confident that we traveled New Zealand's Fjordland the right way: roughing it for gasp-inducing scenery and splurging for a post-hike overnight cruise in Milford Sound, the most popular of New Zealand’s majestic fjords. We followed the proven formula of roughing it before luxury, or instead of luxury, merely a comfortable, shower-filled, buffet-side existence. We met travelers who were doing the reverse and felt sorry for them. Best to do the trek before rewarding oneself with a relaxing cruise. The Milford Sound trek may claim fame as one of the world’s greatest walks. We had heard that the Routeburn proves more interesting in its ecological diversity and choice places to stay along the way. More than 13,000 people a year do the twenty-eight kilometer trek, making it one of New Zealand's busiest. After viewing wildflowers, glacier lakes and quite possibly the forests from Middle Earth, we stand by our original position. Three things I wish I had brought on the Routeburn Trek: View from the yoga pavilion. The Farm offers at least three yoga classes a day, including the option for private sessions. Snowboarding, an organized run and surfing used to be the only items I would volunteer to get up early for. Thanks to The Farm at San Benito, I can now add yoga to the list, especially if it involves a cool breeze and a view of mountains, palm trees and a pond with a meditation hut. I felt noticeably more healthy after only three nights on a recent girlfriends' getaway. I didn't do one of the multi-day wellness retreats that serve as the resort's flagship programs. I did, however, do the thrice daily yoga classes and some of the classic work out classes offered at the "Jungle Gym," the workout facility. And stuffed my face--as much as I can as the portions, while filling, are not of the American super-size variety--with the Farm's 100% organic, homegrown and mostly raw cuisine. That being said, go for a double portion of the pesto, which ranks in the "best ever" category. The chef has perfectly melded the freshness of sweet basil with asparagus, snow peas, and bulghur wheat clusters. The freshness of the ingredients had me thinking that the mint on top of my morning yogurt could be classified as a vegetable instead of a herb. The Farm veteran health and wellness team believes that the "new luxury" is fresh seasonal produce direct from an organic garden, picked and served hours later in a dish that is "for the gods." A girlfriend and I recently made a day of it at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental in Hong Kong, also known as a spaceship spa that lifts you off into a timeless world of comfort and indulgence.
Four hours had passed before I looked up from my heated lounge chair to see the time. This was after a 1-hour reflexology appointment to soothe my runner's legs, an express facial that gave me a rosy glow--more on that later!--and putting away more than my share of the tiny snack plates of almonds and apricots while reading the Wall Street Journal in the recovery room. The Dragon's back hike reminded me of why Hong Kong deserves its rank as one of the best cities in the world. One can go for a proper hike in the morning and dine at the 108th floor of the Ritz that same evening.
This hike was more strenuous than my friend and I imagined. We appreciated traveling along the spine of some of Hong Kong Island's more rural bits. I recommend you bring a swimsuit so that you can visit the Shek-O beach afterwards for a swim. The Thai restaurant at the intersection at Shek-O is also popular with the local expat scene. |